CHEAP EATS
4/7/2006 

3.5 pennies (out of four)
"Authentic, casual Italian."
Campobello's Cucina Italiana
9334 Transit Road, East Amherst
636-8770


"The meals keep customers coming back for more."

Campobello's Cucina Italiana, a casual Amherst Italian restaurant, has a simple recipe for success - plenty of good food, reasonable prices and friendly service. 

Amherst Italian restaurant, has a simple recipe for success - plenty of good food, reasonable prices and friendly service.

Your first decision when ordering a full-size entree is a choice of salad or soup. The homemade minestrone soup is a hearty option, if available. The aroma of the fresh, seeded Italian bread, also included with the meal, immediately tempted us. We were told by our waitress that it is delivered daily from Costanzo's Bakery. 

The Campobello's Pasta Plate ($6.60 half; $9.90 full) is a good choice for those who can't decide what to order or who wish to try a variety of Campobello's authentic Italian cooking. The full-size entree overflowed on the plate with a choice of pasta (whole-wheat ziti is $1 extra), one large sausage and two plump meatballs. 

The meat and cheese lasagna ($9.95) was a thick serving of layered pasta and cheese. In the cheese manicotti ($8.95), we detected the delicious taste of sauteed onions in the sauce. 

We enjoyed all these selections on our first visit, but when we returned to Campobello's, we tried different entrees. The three of us devoured the Sicilian white pizza, with its tangy blend of olive oil, spices, garlic and three cheeses. It was loaded with fresh tomatoes and onions. A "round" pizza ($11.95) is an eight-slice pie, though larger and smaller portions are also available. This was a clear winner from the first bite. 

Two of us chose the Italian baked fish, and we were glad we did. Sauteed with Italian herbs and spices, the haddock was so fresh it flaked and was perfectly cooked and seasoned. It was a delicious alternative to a traditional fish fry. Both fish options are served only on Fridays. We substituted spaghetti with parsley, aglia and olio (garlic and olive oil) instead of the included side dish of spaghetti and meat sauce. However, we both thought the pasta needed more garlic. 

On a busy recent Friday, every table was occupied and we waited about 20 minutes for our main course to arrive. For our patience, we were treated to free refills of soda. Sundays there is gnocchi ($7.95; $9.25 with meatballs or $9.75 with sausage). Wine enthusiasts will be pleased to know that Pasta Red Reserve from the Finger Lakes' Knapp Vineyards is available by the glass ($3.50) or the bottle ($12.95). 

The restaurant, which also does a busy take-out business, is located at the far end of a strip mall. The dining room decor consists of cafeteria-style booths and a glass block partition. But it's the meal, and not the ambience, that keeps customers coming back for more. 

- Maria Ceraulo, Special to The News 

Campobello's is open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday; and noon to 10 p.m. Sunday. All items are also available for delivery in their delivery area for a charge of $2.50. It is handicapped-accessible.